Proteins and Amino Acids

August 3rd, 2009

Dogs’ diets need a variety of nutrients, including protein, fat, fiber, vitamins and minerals. Protein accounts for about 50 percent of the dry matter in a dog’s body and is an essential component of every cell in the body. It is important in body structure, such as in muscle, hair, bone, and organs. Plus, protein is critical in functions such as defending the body against infections and digesting food. The dietary protein not utilized in support of these functions can be burned as energy.

Although protein is considered necessary for healthy dogs, it is not actually protein that is used, but rather the amino acids of the protein. Digestion breaks down the protein molecules into amino acids. The amino acids are then absorbed and distributed by the bloodstream to the body cells, which rebuild the amino acids into body components.

The quality of protein depends to a large extent upon its amino acid content. The body can make some amino acids, while others, called essential amino acids, must be supplied by the diet. Ten amino acids considered essential to dogs are histidine, isoleucine, leucine, arginine, methionine, phenylalanine, threonine, tryptophan, valine and lysine. Diets that furnish a proper balance of essential amino acids have quality protein.

The absence of amino acids will influence how dogs utilize their proteins. Protein deficiency symptoms, which are actually amino acids deficiency symptoms, include depressed appetite, poor growth, loss of weight, rough and dull hair & coat.

Not all dog foods provide the proper amounts of essential amino acids in an available form to supply good-quality protein. The combination of two or more protein sources in a dog food generally provides a balanced amino acid profile. A balanced ratio of plant protein with another plant or animal protein can provide many of the essential amino acids dogs need. Nutritional supplements such as G-Whiz Neutralizer with essential amino acids also can be added to food or water to help provide better health through improved protein utilization, which will reduce odors and the volume of ammonia in the urine.

Lawn Burns

July 21st, 2009

What is Lawn Burn?

Lawn burn is a common problem that results when the urine of your dog burns the grass in your lawn. If you have ever had to deal with this problem, you know how frustrating it is and how difficult it can be to prevent. There are many home remedies to correct this problem, but most of them are ineffective and a few of them actually make the situation worse. This article will describe the cause and contributing factors of lawn burn and give recommendations for preventing this problem in your own yard.

Identify Lawn Burn

Before you start implementing changes to correct lawn burn, you need to make sure that your dog is actually the culprit. Several lawn diseases will look like lawn burn, with the small, characteristic brown patches.

First, make sure that the brown spots are in areas where your dog urinates. Most dogs will have an area in the yard that they choose to use as the ‘bathroom.’

Secondly, make sure that the grass in the brown spots is still firmly attached. Grab a handful and give it a steady pull. If the grass is firmly rooted, then it points to lawn burn. If the whole bunch of grass pulls up, roots and all, then you may be dealing with a grub problem.

And thirdly, make sure that your dog is the problem. If your neighbor’s dog is coming into your yard and creating the problem it will not do any good to treat your own dog.

The Cause of Lawn Burn

Lawn burn is caused by the nitrogen in dog urine. Because dog urine is very high in nitrogen, when the dog urinates, it is similar to pouring liquid fertilizer on the lawn. A little fertilizer is good for the grass, but an excess causes nitrogen burn. The prevention of lawn burn deals with trying to reduce the amount of nitrogen coming into contact with the grass. Supplements such G-Whiz Neutralizer and G-Whiz Anti Lawn Burning Treats help neutralize ammonia internally. Soil Treatments such as Dogonit help the lawn heal faster to eliminate the yellow spot.

Contributing Factors

There are several contributing factors that increase the likelihood of developing lawn burn.

  • Female dogs are more likely to cause lawn burn than males because they void their entire bladder in one location instead of lifting their leg and marking, like males.
  • Large dogs deposit more urine so they increase the quantity of nitrogen in one location, making lawn burn more likely.
  • Those dogs, usually young active dogs, fed a high protein diet are more likely to produce a urine that causes lawn burn.
  • Heavily fertilized yards are already receiving near maximum levels of nitrogen. The small amount of nitrogen in dog urine may be all that is needed to put these lawns over the edge and cause lawn burn.
  • Lawns that are stressed are more susceptible to damage. Lawns that are suffering from drought, disease, or are newly sodded or seeded are more susceptible to lawn burn.

Solving the Problem

Successfully treating and preventing lawn burn often requires a multi-step approach.

  1. Best solution is to saturate the urinated spots with water. After the pet urinates, pour several cupfuls of water on the spot to dilute the urine. If this is not possible, spray Dogonit on the spot once it starts yellowing and flush with water to accelerate the healing.
  2. Feed a high quality dog food that does not exceed the pet’s protein requirement. High quality foods have more digestible protein sources that are more completely utilized by the pet and create less nitrogenous waste in the urine.
  3. Encouraging your dog to drink more, will help dilute the urine and decrease the risk of lawn burn. Small amounts of non-salted broth in the drinking water may help increase your dog’s water intake.
  4. Train your dog to urinate in a location that is less visible. This approach is very effective for some owners that do not want to add supplements to their dogs’ diet.
  5. Replant your yard with more urine-resistant grasses. The most resistant grasses tend to be perennial rye grasses and fescues. The most sensitive tend to be Kentucky bluegrass and Bermuda.
  6. Feed your dog a supplement like Drs. Foster and Smith Lawn Guard if you like tablets or G-Whiz Neutralizer if you prefer a liquid. If the lawn is already burned, apply a product to the lawn such as Dogonit Lawn Treatment. These products bind and neutralize the nitrogen in your pet’s urine. For a quick cover up, try Dogonit Lawn Colorant to color the brown spots green immediately.
  7. Reduce the stress on your lawn by not over- or under-fertilizing and by providing frequent watering.
  8. If neighbors’ dogs are causing the problem, you may advise your neighbors of the leash laws. Using a fence or motion-activated sprinkler may be helpful in keeping these dogs off of your lawn. Brown spots created by lawn burn are not a medical threat to your dog, however, they can be unsightly and potentially expensive to repair.

By understanding the cause of these spots, and then making a few changes, you should be able to give your dog full range of the yard and still enjoy a trouble-free lawn.

H2Organic FAQs

July 9th, 2009

H2Organic™
Frequently Asked Questions


Is there any change in pH by using H2Organic?

Sometimes the use of biological blends of microbes will adjust pH towards neutral. However, this would be more of an issue in a grease trap or in a waste retention holding tank, than in a decorative or a golf course pond.

What is the life span of bacteria in H2Organic after being used in a pond?

The bacteria in H2Organic become active as soon as they are exposed to water. If there is ample food (organic waste) and oxygen, along with the correct temperature and pH ranges in the water, the bacteria will begin to multiply (double in number every 20-40 minutes). Please note:

When you first begin to treat the pond with bacteria, there is more food (organic waste) than there are bacteria in the pond water, because of what has naturally accumulated over the years. Then as the bacteria digest this food, they quickly multiply in number (under favorable conditions). This means you eventually end up with more bacteria than food. At that point, the excess bacteria begin to die off, leaving you eventually with fewer bacteria than food. Then the bacteria begin to thrive on the food supply once again, and the cycle starts over. The goal is to keep a constant supply of fresh aggressive bacteria in a pond throughout the entire Season. At the beginning of every Season, you will also need to reapply bacteria and continue with a consistent dosing program throughout the Season, because the bacteria left over from the previous year will not be sufficient enough to handle the problems in the current year.

Does H2Organic have a slight effect on plankton?

The answer is a definite NO! You will NOT be able to out-compete planktonic algae or duckweed with our bacteria. Nor will you be able to out-compete floating lily pads or rooted plants. Do not use H2Organic for these purposes.

Are you producing or planning to produce bacteria to get rid of planktonic algae?

Our testing confirms that to date, we DO NOT have bacteria that will out-compete plankton. There are a few Companies here is the U.S. that make the claims that their bacteria will control planktonic algae as well as duckweed, but it is a misleading sales pitch. They make their claims based on the fact that the bacteria will take up phosphorus and nitrogen from the water, and because phosphorus and nitrogen feed the plankton as well as the duckweed, the bacteria will out-compete the plankton and duckweed, just as they do the filamentous algae. However, plankton and duckweed will not be affected by the bacteria, because the plankton and duckweed are far too aggressive for bacteria to out-compete. If we find a blend of microbes that can out-compete these things, you will be of the first to know.

How long should you wait after treating a pond with an herbicide before using H2Organic?

You should always wait at least 48 hours before starting the H2Organic Program. This gives the herbicide, algaecide, insecticide, etc. enough time to dilute out in the water, before our microbes are exposed to it. There will still be a small percent of kill, but if the environment is suitable for our microbes, they will quickly reproduce anyway. It is not recommended to wait any longer than 48 hours. Any longer of a wait, after using an algaecide on existing algae for example, just allows more time for new algae to get a head start again on the nutrients in the water. Do not wait any longer than 48 hours.

Is there a residual benefit from using H2Organic from one season to another?

There may be a residual effect of sorts, because some of the microbes will have remained in the pond throughout the winter, but not enough to handle the problems at the beginning of the next Season. We need to re-build the bacterial population at the beginning of every spring and maintain the population of microbes throughout the year, with consistent dosing.

There may be less organic wastes in the pond water starting out the Season this year (recognizable by the degree of clarity in the water, over last Season), but you can not visibly see phosphorus and nitrogen in the water, and these problem nutrients are the cause of the algae. Remember, if the nutrient levels are high enough in your Customer’s pond to support algae, then that algae can appear at any given time. So although clarity and / or any odor problems are less this year, because of last years H2Organic Program, the nutrient problems will still exist, if not get worse, every consecutive year. This is very important.

What are the effects of Agricultural Chemicals or Pesticides on H2Organic?

The agricultural chemicals used for turf grass maintenance will NOT affect H2Organic. The only time they are worth considering, is when rain water causes the chemicals to flush into the pond. But even then, the concentrations of chemicals are so low that they will NOT affect H2Organic’s overall performance.

The use of pesticides in a pond is a separate issue, however a few points to know are: If you need to apply any pesticides (algaecides, herbicides, insecticides, etc.) directly to the pond water, we recommend you use all of them at the same time. Wait 48 hours before beginning the H2Organic Program. This way the chemicals will not be concentrated enough in the water to affect H2Organic. If you want to use a pesticide after starting the H2Organic Program, you must do so 48 hours before application of weekly maintenance dose of H2Organic. (For the same reasons as above) It is not recommended to wait more that 48 hours after using an algaecide. Any longer of a wait, allows more time for new algae to get a head start again on nutrients in the water.

What are the effects of Chlorine on H2Organic?

The level of chlorine found in drinking water and the hydrants that supply most golf course water will NOT affect H2Organic. Do not worry about these low levels of chlorine.

However, the extreme levels of chlorine used in swimming pools to kill disease-causing bacteria will also kill the bacteria in H2Organic. We DO NOT recommend H2Organic for swimming pools.

H2Organic “Qualify Your Pond”

July 9th, 2009

QUALIFYING PONDS

When qualifying ponds, be sure to pay close attention to the volume of water in the pond and the depth of the water. Small shallow ponds present difficult problems to overcome for biological treatment, especially when trying to out-compete algae.

To calculate surface acreage for larger ponds:
Pond length x width ÷ 43,560 = Surface Acres

To calculate pond volume for small to medium ponds:
Pond length x width x depth x 3.75 = volume (gallons).

The majority of the problem ponds center around being either too small, too shallow or both! In small ponds and in shallow ponds there is usually a lack of oxygen, as well as a lack of food for the bacteria. This not only limits bacterial action, but often times make it next to impossible to out-compete algae.

Our bacteria actually digest the animal and plant wastes (this clarifies the water and eliminates the odors). Algae control is achieved by out-competing the algae for their food (nitrogen and phosphorus). The “backbone” of the H2Organic program is as follows:

The algae bloom is not the problem! The problem is excess nutrient build-up in the water (mostly nitrogen and phosphorus). Once these nutrients reach a high enough level, they will trigger and algae bloom. The algae bloom can happen within 24-48 hours, once this nutrient level is reached.

The goal of our bacteria is to reduce the level of excess nutrients in the water and out-compete the algae. This process usually takes 4-5 weeks, give or take.

When starting with an existing algae problem, an EPA approved algaecide, should ALWAYS be used to kill the algae, before using H2Organic. The H2Organic program should be started 48 hours after the algaecide has been applied!

A very important variable to remember is that the algae has potential to re-bloom within these first 4-5 weeks of treatment with H2Organic until the bacteria have reduced the level of excess nutrients. If a re-bloom occurs, just spot treat the problem area(s) with a liquid algaecide as before (always remembering to apply algaecides 48 hours before your weekly dose of H2Organic is due to be applied). BE PATIENT and wail the 4-5 weeks for the bacteria to take over.

Even when you do not start with algae problems, if your nutrient levels are high enough to support an algae bloom, you can easily get caught in the bloom / re-bloom cycle, at any time during the first 4-5 weeks of treatment! Again, continue the H2Organic program and wait it out!

A quick reminder that our bacteria will not clear up murky water caused from mud or clay. Mud and clay are inorganic and not able to be digested by the bacteria!

Also remember to stay away from planktonic algae. Only treat filamentous algae (the mossy, floating type)!

Always check the retention of the pond to confirm the bacteria will not be pumped out or flushed out of the system.

Always check the pH and temperature of the water!

ECOLOGICAL CONTROLS FOR HEALTHY PONDS

July 9th, 2009

By Ron Pifer
B.S Mechanical Engineering, Duke University
M.A. Environmental Biology, University of Colorado

Once when I was a young boy, standing on a beach in Florida, I looked skyward and noticed a low flying plane, dropping what looked like water out of it’s bomb bay doors. “What’s that,” I asked. “Why that’s DDT, Ronnie, and it’s going to kill those pesky mosquitoes that are always trying to carry you away!” Well, what a relief, I thought, isn’t life great?
Now I am much older, and more experienced, and as Paul Harvey so aptly reports, I have learned the rest of the story! That story was first chronicled for me in Rachel Carson’s classic book. Silent Spring, when she stated how insidious poisons become concentrated, as they move up food chains, resulting in illness and death for animals at the top. A new term was even coined to characterize this phenomenon, biological magnification, and in recent years, children all over the country have been taught this concept in schools. As a result a new understanding and beginning was founded.

Unfortunately, real life considerations have their practical side; and poisons are still used and embraced by most of us working in the turf, landscaping, and farming industries. Fortunately, alternatives have always existed, and they are being implemented with increasing frequency in all of those industries. In these cases, the result is a more stable and healthy environment, which is more capable of sustaining harmful hits from weather, pests, and harmful toxins. In addition, the bottom line for using these alternatives can be lower operating costs and more money in the operating budget!

The Basic Ecological Approach to Pond Management

I was recently asked by one of the most esteemed, environmentally oriented superintendents in the golf course industry to stale the main components of ecological pond management. Here is what I told him:

1) Restrict or Reduce the Source of Nutrients Entering your Pond(s). This objective can be accomplished by (a) reducing the use of fertilizer around the border of your pond; (b) placing drainage pathways around the pond, to divert the nutrient-rich runoff away from it; (c) placing impermeable catchment basins in strategic locations to catch, divert, and evaporate the incoming water: and (d) placing a border of native wetland vegetation along the edge of the pond to absorb the incoming nutrients and to provide an attractive border.

2) Employ Biological Controls to Keep the Pond(s) in Ecological Balance and Maintain its Long-Term Health. This objective is designed to help the pond manager offset the nutrient loading to the pond, which causes algae blooms and can cause bad odors, fish kills, and unsightly appearances. There are two main approaches to accomplishing this objective and they can be used in combination with each other. The first one, the most basic is to introduce high concentrations of pond bacteria and enzymes, to act as “packmen” and eat up the nutrient-rich film on the submerged surfaces. This attacks the problem at its source and keeps the pond in proper ecological balance. The second approach is to introduce plant-eating fish to consume the algae that the nutrients have produced. This approach is legal in some states, while illegal in others. However, it can be partially effective when the stocking rate is optimal and the biological conditions are proper. In both cases, the beneficial results are gradual, when compared to using poisons, but the long-term health of the pond is far superior to the “kill ‘em with poisons” approach.

3) Use Mechanical Measures to Maintain High Oxygen Levels. This approach is often used to support the pond bacteria in digesting the nutrient input and controlling the algae blooms and aquatic weed problems. It can and should be used in conjunction with the previous strategy, since it enhances the health vitality, and productivity of both the beneficial bacteria and the plant-eating fish. It can be accomplished by a variety of devices, including propeller-driven fountains, normal air blowers and diff users, or the more expensive ozonators and diffusers. Furthermore, some pond managers create beautiful waterfalls that accomplish a similar objective in an aesthetically pleasing manner.

4) Use Sun Screens or Tinting Dyes. This approach is often useful for restricting incoming light and slowing the photosynthetic processes of the algae. It is most economically feasible in smaller ponds than are not used for pumping or do not have excessive turnover or water loss. However, this approach is ecological only if the sunscreen is not toxic and is easily biodegradable by natural pond bacteria)

5) Physically Remove and Dispose of Any Remaining Algae. As you might expect, a properly managed pond system will clean itself, yet the removal of nutrients may also produce some dead or dying algae. Some of this biomass will sink to the bottom for future decomposition, while some will float on the water surface. The dead, floating algae can be removed by physical means, if so desired. However, if this is done, the algae mass should be taken to a location outside of the immediate pond drainage area, so that future decomposition does not provide a source of future nutrients for the pond.

The Basic Approach to Pond Management

The normal approach to managing ponds is to use algaecides, which are usually copper based poisons that are approved and regulated by government agencies. These chemical strategies often provide a “quick-fix” if applied properly, but they can also result in fish deaths if applied to heavily. More importantly, this approach introduces a toxin into an aquatic ecosystem that also kills or inhibits the pond’s beneficial bacteria and will eventually become incorporated into the aquatic food chain.

This consequence becomes important when you consider that some or most of the algae being killed by the algaecide are sinking to the pond’s bottom, where they enter the pond’s decay cycle. Here, the small aquatic organisms and the beneficial bacteria normally do their job of digesting the plants and maintaining the health of the pond. However, continual use of algaecides reduces their numbers and inhibits their ability to do their job.
This condition results in a bottom layer of organic slime and sediment that becomes a partial dead zone, where anaerobic and facultative aerobic bacteria work very slowly in a low- or no-oxygen environment. It is also a zone that is favorable for pathogens, including E.Coli, and other organisms that are harmful to both aquatic life and humans. Furthermore, the by-products of these bacteria are often hydrogen sulfide, which smells like rotten eggs, and/or methane gas. In addition, there may be a “dead fish” smell, further emphasizing the pond’s sick state of existence.

At this point. Superintendents are often told by consultants that they need to install expensive aeration systems, in order to deal with the odor problem. This approach should help the odor problem, as well as some of the decay processes in the pond bottom. Unfortunately, such a pond will still be out of ecological balance, if poisons are still used in conjunction with this aeration. This means that as the nutrients build up on the pond bottom, heavier doses of algaecides will be needed in order to maintain proper weed control. This consequence will require additional funding from maintenance budgets and will keep the pond headed towards further eutrophication, or the accumulation of nutrients, and the resultant accumulation of more algae!

The Bacterial Approach to Pond Management

Normal pond bacteria are useful for recycling nutrients and keeping the pond in proper ecological balance. However, these bacteria do not necessarily dispose of the nutrients that are a key component of algae blooms. Therefore, when a net gain of nutrients is occurring in a pond environment, it becomes necessary to supplement the native bacteria with special formulations that emphasize nutrient disposal, versus nutrient recycling. Some of these introduced bacteria break down carbohydrates, proteins, and fats into their main components. Others break them down further until the end products are carbon dioxide and water. Yet the most important part of any bacterial formulation is the addition of those types of bacteria that dispose of the primary nutrients for algae blooms: nitrates and phosphates. Most importantly, the better formulas should contain de-nitrifying bacteria, which convert nitrate into nitrogen gas and those bacteria that bind up the phosphates. The resultant millions of such bacteria can then convert the nutrients into carbon dioxide gas, nitrogen gas, and water. In order to accomplish this kind of result, a beneficial bacterial formula must contain multiple bacteria species. For example, H2Organic, contains 11 species of bacteria and seven different enzymes. Most of them perform multiple functions, yet, when taken in total, they cover the full spectrum of decomposition activities that are required in this type of management strategy. This is the kind of total and complete formula that is needed for a successful program.

Other components for a successful Bacterial Program are:

(1) an awareness of the biological conditions existing in the pond;
(2) a high concentration of bacteria:
(3) s superior viability of the bacteria; and
(4) an effective means of dispersal into the pond(s).

Good pond conditions exist when there is adequate aeration, or water movement, which may be mechanical or natural; when the temperature is between 60° F and 90′F; and when the pH is between 6.0 and 9.0. Ponds that are stagnant, or have little natural or artificial water movement, may require heavier or more frequent treatments.

Most pond bacterial formulations are sold in the powder form, being freeze-dried and containing startup growth nutrients, while some are sold in the liquid form. The bacterial concentration varies according to the product being sold. For example, the liquid formulation may have 100 billion or more cells per gallon. On the other hand, the powder formulations may have from several billion to over 10 billion cells per gram, resulting in about 1/2-to-l trillion cells per gallon, for one pound of product. Furthermore, another formulation may be “brewed” up to ultra-high concentrations, exceeding 15 trillion, or 1,500 billion, cells per gallon, for one pound of product. This formulation was designed Co reduce shipping costs when servicing fish and shrimp farming clients in the Orient.

From the standpoint of dispersion, the least productive approach may be the bacteria that are sold in bio-disposable bags. They are designed to be placed on the pond’s surface, to be blown around by the wind and to slowly disperse into the water column. Perhaps a better way is to disperse the product is by hand, throwing it into the water, walking around the pond’s edge. If the product is already liquid, it is ready to go; if it is in the powder form, it needs to be brewed in non-chlorinated and non-toxic water and then dispersed. Of course, the best means of dispersal may be a water pump, if the pond is big enough, or at a headgate, if major volumes of water are flowing into the pond.

Once you try a bacterial product, make sure that you use enough to product to achieve noticeable results. This may require you to use 1.5X to 2.OX the maintenance dosage the first time, in order to kick off the process. Also, make sure to carefully follow the brewing instructions, if there are any, and disperse the product in the most effective manner possible. Repeated treatments may be needed every 2-to-6 weeks, depending on conditions and treatment strength. Your representative can usually help you if you just ask.

Evidence of a successful treatment is apparent in several different ways:

(1) Within a week the bacteria should have started a to clean up the organic film, located along the edge of your pond. This action creates a kind of “vacuum cleaning effect”
(2) Within a week any odors should have disappeared, as the beneficial bacteria start to out-compete the resident bacteria for nutrients and reduce the hydrogen sulfide production
(3) Within a week, the green or blue-green color of the water should reduced and the water clarity should improve. This occurs because the phytoplankton populations are depleted as the nutrients are removed
(4) After several weeks the algae surface scum and some of the rooted aquatics may also start to turn yellow, then brown, as the nutrients are removed and their health deteriorates.

Fishery Management Options

Fishery options can be a favorable component of a well-managed ecological program. They should be chosen, according to your legal and financial constraints, as well as the type of plants that you expect them to consume. In general, there are two main types of aquatic plants in a freshwater pond:

(1) the phytoplankton, or single-celled, suspended algae, which give the water a green or blue-green color; and
(2) the rooted aquatic plants, or weeds, which grow from the bottom upwards. They include the normal leafy plants, as well as the “stringy” pond scum.

To remove the first type of plant, the phytoplankton, the Israeli Carp or the Tilapia is a possible choice. I am most familiar with the Tilapia, since my former company. Solar Aquafarms, Inc. is the largest Tilapia farm in North America. This fish is a superior filter feeder and can live almost exclusively on the tiny algae that they filter from the water. Solar Aquafarms uses this characteristic to recycle the fish waste into algae ponds which are, in turn, pumped back to the fish, to supplement their diet and reduce their feed costs!

The other popular algae eater is the grass carp, which is sometimes called the White Amur. It is popular due to its heavy appetite for some types of rooted aquatic vegetation and due to the fact that it is produced with three sets of chromosomes, instead of two, and is sterile. However, it does not eat all types of algae and often creates turbidity problems, due to heavy rooting activity in the shallow areas along the pond’s borders. As many of you know, it is also illegal in many states due to the concern of illegal releases and the potential harm to the preferred game fish. (more)

Suggestions for Long-Term Success

Superintendents, who have not tried all of the ecological strategies that are available to them, should consider the choices listed in this article. The two most important of these strategies are: (1) to minimize the source of the nutrients flowing into the pond and (2) to reduce the nutrients that make it to the pond. The first strategy is accomplished by drainage design, vegetation e patterns, and fertilizing patterns, while the second strategy is accomplished by a well-designed, bacterial treatment program. In both cases, you are attacking the algae at its source – by removing its life-giving, vital nutrients. Naturally, these ecological strategies are enhanced with good water movement or aeration; organic sun screens, when desirable and appropriate: the addition of algae-eating fish, such as grass carp when you can use them; and the periodic removal and remote disposal of dead algae when it appears.

Most of the strategies are already familiar to most of you, with the exception of the bacterial strategy. I hope I have given you a better understanding of how it works and how it can benefit you. If you haven’t tried it, I suggest that you do. It might even be fun for you to see your pond go through the improvement phases that normally accompany such an approach.


Notes on the Complementary Effects of Using Fish and
Beneficial Microorganisms for Controlling Pond Algae

by Ronald Pifer, Aquatic Ecologist

My previous article, published in August of 1998, focused on “Ecological Controls for Healthy Ponds.” This approach stressed the advantages of employing multiple management tools to reduce costs and to minimize environmental damage. These tools included:

(1) Restricting nutrients entering the pond;
(2) using biological controls, such as fish and beneficial bacteria;
(3) Using aeration systems, such as fountains, blowers. diffusers, and waterfalls;
(4) using aquatic sunscreens; and/or 5) physically removing filamentous or rooted algae, whenever possible.

In this update, we will focus on biological controls and show how they can help one another, to produce a more powerful and effective, algae-control program. This approach utilizes a subtle synergism, or cooperation, among control species. It is possible because the strength of one organism can often offset, or complement, the weakness of another. Thus, the combination produces stronger and more desirable results than are possible with individual controls, acting by themselves.

The fishery controls usually entail the use of grass carp, or white amur, because of their ability to gradually control many rooted aquatics. Other fish are sometimes used to control the microscopic algae, or phytoplankton. They include tilapia and Israeli carp, and in some cases, gold fish. However, it is the grass carp that are the most widespread, algae-control fish, and it is this species that can be used most effectively with the introduced pond bacteria.

Grass carp are beneficial because they are known to favor American elodea, hydrilla, naiad, and muskgrass, or chara. They have moderate inclination for duckweed, pondweeds, bladderwort, fanwort, coontail, water pennywort, and water primrose. Part of their downside is that they do not care for water lily, sedges, cattails, water meal, and water hyacinth (Georgia Cooperative Extension Service).

On the other hand, beneficial pond bacteria are more effective in controlling the floating, filamentous algae and the microscopic, suspended algae, which the grass carp don’t like or cannot eat. The downside of the beneficial bacteria is that they are less effective in controlling those rooted aquatics that the grass carp prefer. Therefore, in terms of preferences or weaknesses, the grass carp and the beneficial bacteria can complement each other very nicely.

When grass carp are stocked properly in a pond, their feeding activities will generate a multitude of plant by-products, which natural pond bacteria will turn into nitrates and phosphates. These nutrients will eventually cause a phytoplankton bloom, resulting in green or blue-green water (University of Florida 1998). Once this happens, the stage is set for a phytoplankton “crash,” or massive die-off. At this point, the native pond bacteria work “overtime” to degrade the extra dead algae, resulting in lowered oxygen levels and, sometimes, bad odors. As you know, this condition often leads to stressed fish and, possibly, to fish moralities.

Fortunately, the laboratory-cultured, beneficial bacteria have been designed to alleviate this situation by consuming those nutrients that are released by carp and processed by native pond bacteria. They also can improve the bottom environment by taking over the decay process from anaerobic bacteria, and thus, they can eliminate bad odors and improve public relations.

Their success is dependent on several factors, however. First, the bacterial formula must contain those species of bacteria that consume nitrates, turning them into nitrogen gas, which is harmless and represents about 80% of the air we breathe. Secondly, the bacteria must be able to bind up the phosphates and render them unavailable as plant nutrients. Thirdly, the formula should contain facultative aerobic bacteria, which can operate with or without oxygen. Fourthly, the formula must contain sufficient concentrations to be effective. And finally the cultured bacteria must be suited to the pond’s environment, with regard to its temperature and pH.

Another benefit of the beneficial microorganisms is their ability to have a positive impact on the control of the filamentous algae. This type of plant grows upward from the bottom and spreads into stringy mats on the surface. If not attended to, it can rot and cause odor and visual problems. The grass carp, on the other hand, do not particularly care for this common type of pond algae. Chuck Cichra of the University of Florida (1998) stated that he has seldom noticed grass carp feeding on this type of plant. Only once did he see it happen, when a lone, large carp had eaten every other plant out of a small farm pond and was left to either starve or eat the filamentous algae. Gee, I wonder what it did!

In conclusion, several points should be taken into account when considering how to best manage these biological controls. First, if you are allowed to use grass carp, you need to determine the proper stocking rate and size for your conditions. Secondly, you need to determine the proper bacterial formula and the treatment timing. And thirdly, you need to realize that biological results are gradual, compared with poisons, yet their long-term benefits are favorable for the environment, are usually more affordable, and are good for public relations…
If you would like any help or assistance in implementing these strategies, please do not hesitate to contact me. A knowledgeable and cooperative partnership makes both players stronger and their joint efforts more powerful.

Mr. Pifer has spent over 15 years in Ecological Consulting, five years in Aquaculture R &; D, seven years as a Science Teacher at the junior high, high school, and college levels, and approximately five years in the Bacterial Products Industry.

H2ORGANIC™ AND ALGAE

July 9th, 2009

ALGAE CONTROL

It is important to understand that algae are not the problem in most ponds, but only a symptom of the true problem. The true problem is that the pond water contains a high level of excess nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus, which stimulate algae growth. Also please understand that it will take approximately 30 days of consistent use, for H2Organic to lower these excess nutrients, to the point where they will not stimulate of support algae. Any algae blooms that may occur during this time is not due to lack of performance, but because H2Organic has not yet had a chance to lower excess nutrients.

PLANKTONIC ALGAE VERSES FILAMENTOUS ALGAE

PLANKTONIC ALGAE are often times called microscopic algae. This is because they are invisible to the human eye. The only way to physically see the algae is under a microscope. This is why they get the nick-name microscopic algae! Even though you can not see each individual algae cell, the combination of billions and billions of them give a greenish tint to the water. This is also why it is said that the planktonic algae give a “pea-soup” green look to the water.

DUCKWEED can be distinguished by simply looking to see if the floating mat is made up of small single plants (all appearing like very small clover plants – anywhere from one to two tiny leaves per plant). These small duckweed plants almost always have a tiny half inch root that hangs down from the bottom of each plant as it floats on the surface of the water. As far as scale, each single duckweed plant (all leaves) will usually fit within your small fingernail. These plants grow so close together in a pond, that from a distance they all appear as one huge “mat”.

H2Organic will not treat Planktonic algae or Duckweed.
Our bacteria cannot out-compete these types of algae.

FILAMENTOUS ALGAE are easily visible to the human eye, usually floating on the surface of the water. As you should recall, the filamentous algae starts on the bottom the pond, where the sunlight hits. Then if floats to the surface. However, regardless if the filamentous algae are still under the water, or if it has already started floating, it still looks the same. It looks like moss. Filamentous algae gets its name from the fact that if you reach down and grab a handful of it, the pull upward, it stretches into long stringy filaments. Filamentous algae are the ONLY type of algae that forms moss-like filamentous, and floats. There are several different varieties of filamentous algae, but they all look like floating moss. Some are different colors than others. The varieties can range from green, black or red, to a yellowish appearance.

This is the only type of algae H2Organic™ will treat – the Filamentous type!

The very easiest way to distinguish these two types of algae from each other is to use the “grab test”. Simply reach down and grab a handful of the algae. If you CAN physically grab it, then it’s FILAMENTOUS ALGAE. If you CAN NOT physically grab a handful of it, but the water is green, it’s PLANKTONIC ALGAE!

ALGAECIDES ON EXISTING ALGAE

Any existing algae can be sprayed with an EPA approved algaecide, 48 hours prior to starting the H2Organic Program. This will help speed up the overall process of clearing existing algae, plus the dead algae will become a food source for our microbes. If the existing algae are not sprayed prior to starting the H2Organic Program, the algae can remain present for another 1-2 weeks. This happens because H2Organic needs roughly 30 days to lower excess nutrient levels in the pond water. At that point, the algae will no longer be able to gather nutrients from the pond water, so they start utilizing nutrients they have stored inside themselves. These stored nutrients can sustain the algae for another 1-2 weeks.

Even when the algae is sprayed and killed with an algaecide, the algae may re-bloom during the initial 30 day rehab period. Remember, the algae that were sprayed before the H2Organic Program was started, was not the true problem. The high nutrients in the water were. Please remember, regardless if you start the H2Organic Program with existing algae or not, if the nutrient levels are high enough in your water to support an algae bloom, you run the risk of getting one at any time, until they are lowered. Again, should any initial algae bloom or any re-bloom occur after starting the H2Organic Program, it only means the excess nutrients are not yet under control. Just spot treat the problem area with your algaecide (48 hours before your weekly dose of H2Organic is due to be applied), and continue to wait the 30 day rehab period.

The use of algaecides can kill fish and other aquatic life, so why do we recommend using them? The benefits of using an algaecide are explained above. Furthermore, if used only once or twice, the potential for a fish kill is very small. The problems arise with continued use of the algaecide, when it is used consistently through the year, as a complete program by itself. Do not worry about one or two applications, especially in the case of spot treating problem areas.

Although we recommend you use an algaecide, it is not imperative.
It just may take a little longer for results.

Nature’s Rhythm – Winter

July 9th, 2009

WINTER. . .
The “cool season grasses” of the Midwest do their most aggressive root growth during cool weather. A Winter application applied during this period will take advantage of the two growth seasons for roots, Late Fall/Early Winter and Late Winter/Early Spring. The soil regenerates and rejuvenates itself during this most critical period.The alternating freeze/thaw cycle in the soil allows nutrients and water to penetrate deeper into the soil, forcing the roots to further penetrate for food and drink.The soil is preparing itself to release nutrients in the Spring.

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Nature’s Rhythm – Fall

July 9th, 2009

FALL. . .
the soil is at its highest toxicity due the salt build up from the underground water supply, which is laden with fertilizer nitrate run-off. During extreme dry spells the soil will draw this water up to the surface, the sun evaporates the moisture leaving the salt deposits behind. These salts will burn the roots and cause the lawn to thin out. Weeds germinate as they become exposed to sunlight, air and water. This is the best time to apply balanced nutrients in conjunction with a soil detoxifier (contained in our formulation). During Late Fall the soil begins to cool. It can now absorb higher quantity.

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Nature’s Rhythm – Summer

July 9th, 2009

SUMMER. . .
approaches the soil heats up quickly, and the soil reactivity changes. Nutrients become less available as does water. Grass growth slows due to the soil becoming tight and compact. The roots begin to die back and grow towards the surface. The grass is stressed and can weaken nd die. The grass is now more susceptible to disease and insects. Heavy Mat & Thatch conditions develop, which become breeding grounds for insects and diseases due to the day-time heat and humid evenings. It is critical now to keep the grass healthy, to loosen the soil and to supply balanced nutrients to the soil. This builds natural immunity to diseases, insects and stimulates Mat & Thatch decomposition.

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Nature’s Rhythm – Spring

July 9th, 2009

SPRING. . .
is the time grass rate is at its highest as the soil begins to thaw and warm. As the spring rains start, liquids begin to flow. The soil releases nutrients and the grass roots start absorbing these life-supporting fluids, stimulating the plants early spring growth. The biological, chemical, and physical aspects start to react. Micro-organism activity begins and dead organic matter decomposes. If nutrients and other factors are not available and balanced, results will be poor.This is the time to supply a well balanced diet of nutrients to be absorbed by the plants during their rapid growth period.

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